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Sunday, July 23rd, 2006
2:38 pm - Cairo Time is Dwindling...

Hello, Everyone...

T-minus-9 days and counting until my final departure from Cairo!  Although last week ended on a decidedly sour note as far as research goes (the NGO cancelled on me about 2 minutes before our interview was supposed ot start), this weekend has been inspiring, to say the least.  Per ND's Really Scary Sounding Confidentiality Agreement, I can't discuss what I learned or from whom I learned it, but suffice it to say, the women I spoke with provided interesting points of view.  They took me to Al-Azhar Park (I'd never been there before...tragedy, I know) so that I could enjoy the absolutely gorgeous view.  We also took a replacement photo for the McKenna Display, as the one in front of my fireplace wasn't "Cairo Enough."  

Friday was my 21st, and to celebrate, Anne, Chelsey, and Sarah (el-Ghazaly) took me out to dinner at Lucille's, an American Diner in Ma'adi with A+ grilled cheese and...FREE REFILLS.  After closing down the place, Anne, Chelsey, and I went to Nile Hilton's rooftop bar for...bar-y type things.  What would a 21st be without them?  All in all, it was a very enjoyable night!

Tonight, I'm doing my moral duty by bringing Anne and Chelsey to Ghada's shop for some scarf hoarding.  Afterwards, I'm going with them to their Qur'an class, being held at Al-Azhar Park.  Hopefully I'll get some more photos in the daylight this time.  Last night's were rather...bad.  I'm going to try to get some video of the evening Call to Prayer, too, so you all can appreciate it.

Behind the cut are photos, as usual...

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Monday, July 17th, 2006
4:10 pm - Another spur-of-the-moment entry.

In honor of the few pictures I took yesterday, I felt that a short entry was in order.  Also, Auntie, be sure to look at the photos near the end to see what kind of goodies I'm bringing home for you all :)

I finished up my work at the Library of Eternal Bureaucracy yesterday and spent the rest of the day lamenting the fact that I still have done little to no research.  But then, today brought many, many new offers for interviews!  Anne S. and Julia are the heroines of the day, as they're responsible for about 2/3 of said offers.  On the docket for this week:

-Anne's Arabic Language Institute (ALI) professors, which means interviews with women from various age ranges.
-Julia's friend Shereen, and friends of Shereen, who I'm meeting with tomorrow.
-A day at the Egyptian Center for Women's Rights (ECWR), including an interview with the director and several employees.

There is hope for me after all!  Also, Lydia will be getting back to me about doing a visit to the Association for the Development and Enhancement of Women (ADEW), which was one of our field trips for Dr. Tadros' class.  There, I hope to interview the head honcho as well as employees and, most importantly, many of the poorer women with whom they work. (Just Say No...to Dangling Participles!)

Tonight, I'm celebrating today's quasi-breakthrough (it's about time...only 2 weeks left in Cairo!) with a night out with Anne and Chelsea (a fellow study abroader who's now living with Anne and doing ALI).  We're going to dinner at a place called Mint.  Sounds posh, yes?  Thank you for picking up the tab, ND Stipend!  Photos and more info later.

Now some

photos )





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Thursday, July 13th, 2006
3:49 pm - Things I Learned Today (and it's only 4:00 PM!)
  1. I speak Arabic with a French accent, even though I've never spoken French in my life.
    The cab driver who took me from the National Council for Women (for more on that experience, see below) to Zamalek, where I sit here writing, got extremely peeved at me.  Not because I tried to cheat him out of cab fare or because I changed destinations mid-ride...oh, no.  Because I was lying to him.  About what?  About being "min Amrika" (from America).  He insisted that I was from France.  "La'a, ya bashmohandis, ana min Amrika!" (No, sir, I'm from America!)  But no.  Apparently from the way I spoke Arabic to him, he KNEW I was from France, and (this was the best part) I shouldn't worry about being from France--he loves France! 
  2. Sometimes I think in the limited Arabic I know, to the extent that I don't respond to English words.
    The cab driver from my hostel to the NCW was a very sweet old man who conversed with me the entire ride, through midday traffic.  I explained that I was in Egypt for research, and that I had studied Arabic and Political Science at AUC last semester.  I also said I was "min Amrika" (and he, unlike Cabbie #2, believed me).  He then asks, "Which entrance to Nile Hilton?" (in English).  My response?  "Mish fihimtak..." (I didn't understand you...).  He turns around, laughs, and says (in English) "Why you not understand?  Min Amrika? I speak English!"  I don't even know why I'm willingly sharing this story on the internet. 
  3. Bureaucracy in Egypt rivals any horror story from the Secretary of State.
    So, in an effort to actually get researching (3 interviews in 2 weeks wasn't cutting it), I paid a visit to the National Council for Women here in Egypt.  Now, this organization, unlike many of the NGOs I'm working with, is directly affiliated with the government, as it's overseen by the 'First Lady' of Egypt.  As such, it's housed in a huge eyesore of a building, and the only entrance is through a small gate on the far edge of the property.  I explain to the guard that I'm looking for the "Maktabat il-marra" (Women's Library).  He nods, sends me through the left entrance, in the first floor doors, and to a reception desk.  I ask this woman where I might find the library.  She looks at me, confused, and after I make sure that this is, indeed, the NWC, I ask again for the library.  She sends me up the elevators to the 10th floor, which is completely deserted.  I come back down, and decide to ask the 2nd floor guard where I might find the elusive library (I'm wondering, at this point, whether it even exists).  He says, "Maktabat il-marra?"  Yes, for the love of GOD, yes.  "Not here."  "Eh?" "Not here. You go down, out, over, up, left, right."  (Yes, that's a direct quote.)  So I wander around and was midway through going "over" when official looking men with suits and guns asked me where I was going.  I repeat my request, and they point me back to the original entrance.  Intimidated by their conspicuously displayed firearms, I go back, talk to the doorman, and he insists it's on the other side of the building.  So I go, explain what had happened to men-in-suits, and finally find the library.  (It wasn't left-right, by the way...it was left-lef-right-left.) 

    Once in the library, the chain of confusion continued.  The informational signs posted throughout the library are simple enough.  No books may be checked out by non-NCW members, but unlimited photocopying is available.  Sounds good.  I go to the shelf marked "Political Participation" and begin shuffling through.  Until I'm stopped by the 'head librarian" and am told to have a seat and wait 'three minutes.'  So I sit.  And wait.  And he finally emerges from his cubicle with a thick stack of papers.  He says, "You mark yours, ok?"  He has apparently performed a catalog search for 'political participation' and has printed out the results.  All of which, as expected, are on the shelf merely 1 1/2 feet away from me.  So, I sit and mark the ones that sound relevant, though I can't be sure, as all of them are titled some variation of "Women's Political Participation."  I hand him my requests, with 10 books marked, and he passes it to someone else...who comes back with 3 books.  Not even related to politics.  I try to explain again, and 15 minutes later, I finally get my books...though it's now an hour after I arrived and 45 minutes til the library closes.  

    Deciding that at this point I'd be better off just copying relevant chapters, I take one of the Xerox forms and start writing in what I need.  I give it to the librarian, who says, "No, only photocopy Sunday, Monday, Wednesday."  You'd think they'd note that on their oh-so-precise signs.  Exasperated, I leave the stack with him, tell him I'll come to pick up the copies on Sunday, and go to leave...until he calls me back.  To inform me that he needs the list of books he gave me.  "But," I protest, "I will need this on Sunday to do more research!"  "Ok, one pound."  I can imagine the look on ND's collective face when they see 20 cents of my budget earmarked for "Unnecessary Print-off of Internet-Accessible Library Catalog."  

So, there you have it.  Three new things in the 6 hours I've been awake today. 

And...in an "Oh, Egypt" moment of the day, I passed by a huge truck in the middle of Talaat Harb filled to the brim with Heineken.  And I really just had to laugh.


ETA ONE MORE LESSON OF THE DAY:

4.  Scotch Tape: Not JUST for paper products anymore.
Horns (of the cab variety) seem to be becoming a theme in my visit to Cairo.  Man who thought I was French had a unique take on 'functioning horn.'  He had one of those horns that is activated by pulling a lever rather than pressing the steering wheel.  Except...every time he went to honk his horn, he had to simultaneously press together the pieces of scotch tape that were holding the relevant wires together. 
 

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Tuesday, July 11th, 2006
7:35 pm - Two photos
Hi, everyone,

Just a quick update because I happen to be in a cafe with a good internet connection.  I'm starting to get worried about all the research that's left to be done.  I'm putting my faith in the Egyptian mantra...bukra insha'Allah ma'3lesh (tomorrow, God willing, no problem).  No use dwelling on that, though.

Yesterday was one of my most enjoyable days I've spent in Cairo, but, unfortunately, I have very little photo-wise to show for it.  I was supposed to do an interview in the morning on campus, but the interviewee had to be with a family member in the hospital.  So, I decided to make the trek to Baab Zuwayla (via il-Muski this time, rather than taking a cab right to the Baab) to visit Ghadda.  We sat and talked for about 2 1/2 hours, and she and her father helped me find some souvenirs I've been scouring the city for since last semester.  I also stopped by her fiance, Hani's, stall to buy some cushion/pillow covers.  Below are the only two photos I took...one en route to her shop, just past the bustling il-Muski market, and one of Ghadda and me.  Plans are in the works for me to visit her again and for the two of us to wander around her market, snapping many more photos.

Today, I found my way to the Egypt Craft Center, a fair-trade handicraft shop in Zamalek.  Beautiful things, but I didn't have too much money with me. 

Enjoy!


Just past il-Muski.  You can see the unofficial 'end' of the market in the background...with the various garments hanging neatly outside the shops.  I had a brief conversation with the boy on the right who's carrying a metal window frame about the same size as he is.  His name is Ahmed, and he has two sisters.  Would I like to visit his family?  Unfortunately, I had no time, but promised to come back soon.


For all of you who keep asking where I get all of your beautiful scarves from...this is Ghadda.  Her father was a bit confused by the camera, so it's a bit blurry.  But you get the gist.  Pass along any more scarf requests asap!


-Mon

current mood: calm

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Sunday, July 9th, 2006
10:06 pm - Smog drops on Sphinkus and emac'yated kittens...

Out of an insatiable desire to avoid research at all costs, I have decided to undertake a project that's been in the works for awhile now.  Yes, it is indeed time for the "Top (Insert # Here) Reasons to Love Cairo."  This is a work in progress, so check back often!

Category 1:  Arabish and Englab--The Intricacies of Egyptian Arabic

  1. "You want to see Sphinkus?" (Read: "Do you want to visit the Sphinx?")
  2. "You want pa-pee-roos?"  (Read: "Do you want some papyrus?"; Note: often accompanied by a moistening of the finger which is then rubbed against the artwork in question...to prove it's handmade)
  3. "Miss?  Miss?  How I take your money?  Miss?" (Sarah's experience with a man in Khan)
  4. "You want shooz-es?  Cloze-es?  I have!"
  5. "Ding Dong Bazaar" (Ok, not so much 'Egyptian Arabic,' but, come on, it's funny.)


Please send along any additions to the list...it will be continued when a better internet connection can be found.

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Wednesday, July 5th, 2006
2:08 pm - A funny story, and some pictures if you're lucky.
EDITED TO ADD FIRST BATCH OF PHOTOS!

So, first....the story.  Stolen almost verbatim from an e-mail to Meg, so excuse any weird wording.

Now, I shall recount the story of the Horn That Wouldn’t Stop Horn…ing. Tonight, on the way back from Euro Deli I caught a cab driven by a really nice old man named Hassan. We got to talking (rather, he got to talking, in rapid-fire Arabic, and I just sat there nodding), and I really felt comfortable with Hassan—a rare occurrence with Egyptian cab drivers. Now, as relevant background information, you should realize that there are no traffic laws in Egypt. Rather, there are ‘suggestions,’ such as only forming three lanes of traffic in a three-lane street, stopping at intersections, avoiding rapid and unannounced lane shifts, and driving with your lights on (ask any cabbie why his lights aren’t on in the dead of night, and he’ll turn around, look at you oddly, and say, “To save battery!” Oh, yes. Silly me.). In lieu of enforced traffic regulations, cabbies rely upon one vital instrument: their horn. I could write another entire entry solely on the intricacies of cab horns in Egypt, but that’s for another time. So, back to Hassan. We approached a notoriously busy intersection near Euro Deli, and he honked, as usual. Only this time, the horn did not stop. What’s more, as it kept blaring, it got progressively louder. Hassan, being the jolly old man he is, turns around and says, “Ma’3lesh! (No worries!)” He proceeds to stop in the middle of the intersection, get out of his vehicle, open his hood, and fiddle with the engine for a good 20 seconds before he got the blasted thing to stop. This same series of events transpires at two more intersections. At the fourth intersection of the ride, poor Hassan was apparently wiped out, and he turns around and explains, again, “Ma’3lesh…mish 3eezeen (No worries…we don’t need it).” To my amazement, he just continues driving, into the deadlocked Cairene traffic, horn blaring at an increasingly unbearable volume. This in and of itself would make a good story, but then something even more hilarious happens. In addition to the horn blaring, his brakes also appear to get stuck. Now, aside from the practical problems of, you know, a strong burning smell coming from the engine, something uniquely Egyptian occurs. I’m sure I’ve mentioned to you before that Cairo cabs are often programmed to play “It’s A Small World” whenever the drivers use their brakes. (You know what’s coming…don’t you?) Well, shortly after the burning smell enters my nostrils, sure enough, “It’s A Small World” begins playing…nonstop. So, there we are, trying to navigate, say, six lanes of traffic, horn blaring, and brakes begging fellow drivers to realize that “It’s a small world, after all.” I have no idea how I kept my composure throughout the ride…but Hassan didn’t seem phased, so I thought it inappropriate to laugh.

And now...
The Pics! )

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Sunday, July 2nd, 2006
3:00 pm - Trying to eke out an entry before the wireless disappears or my battery dies.
Marhaba min al-qahira! 
(Hello from Cairo...roughly speaking)

I'm updating from BeanO's...the "coolest coffee bar in Cairo and the North Coast," and, as my title suggests, this will probably be a very short entry.  I arrived here in Cairo on Friday about 2 hours later than scheduled and was eventually greeted by a taxi driver holding a sign that read: "Paris Hotel Welcome You Monica Poome!"  Assuming this was me, I went with him (though he was obviously miffed because of my tardiness and, therefore, only carried my carry-on as opposed to the 59 lb. piece of check in luggage I was forced to drag up and down three flights of stairs) and arrived at the hostel at about 4:30 am.  My room there is very nice--a private shower, two beds (though I imagine I'll only be needing one of them), and AIR CONDITIONING.  I also get a free breakfast every morning, which is always much more than I can possibly scarf down.  

The past two days were filled with blatant consumerism.  Friday, I made the first voyage to Khan el-Khalili by myself, which was an experience, as always.  After being walked through the intricacies of purchasing bellydancing costumes for Meaghan and Renee, I amazed myself by successfully navigating directly to Sketty's shop to scout out some jewelry for Meaghs.  I stayed and chatted with them for about two hours, as I had to wait for them to actually make a bug pin, per Mrs. Heires' request.  (When they finished, Imad, the owner, said, "It's a-so cute!  I will make many now!")  We talked about how I should go to Kenya next summer (where Sketty's from), about the hot weather, and about hibiscus tea, which is my new second-favorite beverage (next to mango juice, of course).  We also watched, believe it or not, Egyptian bowling.  I asked them what it's called in Arabic, and after thinking for a good 5 minutes, Besim (third store worker) exclaimed, "YES! It's 'bowling'!"  

Yesterday, I got even gutsier and hailed a cab to Baab Zuwayla, which, as Steph and Sarah already know, is no easy task.  The driver insisted to our bowwab that he knew the place, but, sure enough, we had to stop about 5 times to get directions--before he realized that when I said it was 'across from Khan,' I was right.  I tracked down Khadda and we talked for awhile.  I think I have a standing invite to visit her home at least once a week, and her store at least twice as often, so for all your scarfing needs, look no further.  I also met her fiance again, who specializes in hand-sewn wall hangings.  

Now, I'm taking a break before returning to the hostel to pay my bill.  I went to the Sudanese church again this morning to buy some bags.  I think they were just finishing Mass, so I felt awkward asking if I could take pictures.  Maybe when I'm done here, I'll go back.  

Oh, by the way, time to mock Monica...I didn't realize until this morning that my hostel is actually run by a set of identical twins.  Which explains plenty of things, including why I got the look of confusion when I gave a stack of books to Walid's brother, saying, "These are the ones I need copied."  Hah.

Til next time,
Monica

current mood: hot

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Saturday, May 20th, 2006
12:19 am - Last post?
Depending on the level of stress from here on out, this may be my last post from Cairo (until July)!  Finals week begins a week from tomorrow (finals on Saturday--and you thought 8 AM exams were bad?), but all of my loving professors have been so kind as to "move things up a week to take the stress off."  Mission: Unaccomplished.  

Yesterday night, Steph, Sarah, Miranda, Elise, Maria and I went to Baab Zuwayla with one of Sarah's profs.  This is kind of like the natives' version of Khan el-Khalili, and all of the things the vendors at the Khan charge tourists an arm and a leg for are made on-site and sold fairly cheaply.  Maria introduced us to Khadda, affectionately known by most ND kids as the 'scarf lady.'  After buying entirely too much, Khadda was nice enough to offer us a ride home to Zamalek.  Rest assured that I'll be going back to her store several times this summer, so if you need scarves, tunics, bags, or wall-hangings, let me know.



current mood: content

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Friday, May 12th, 2006
5:57 pm - One last trip to Khan


current mood: exhausted

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Wednesday, May 10th, 2006
10:49 pm
Last chance for souvenir requests! We're going on quite an extensive shopping expedition this weekend, so speak now or forever hold your peace.

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Friday, May 5th, 2006
4:37 pm - Summer plans and photos
Hello, everyone,

We're down to four weeks and counting until I head back to the Mitten.  Time has flown by, so I'm really glad I'll be coming back this summer to do everything I haven't had time for so far.  Here's a rough idea of what my itinerary looks like this summer:

Now-May 31: Enjoying Cairo
May 31-June 28: Back to MI for some Great Lakes and Great Times. [Wedding!, research in Dearborn, relaxation]
June 28-August 2: Returning to Cairo for research and lots of NGO visits
August 2-August 20: Vegas? And bumming around Michigan

Let me know when we can get together!

Now, some



current mood: rejuvenated

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Monday, April 24th, 2006
9:32 pm - All Clear
For those of you following the latest news out of Egypt...

My family and I were nowhere near the bombings in Dahab. We were, and still are, in Cairo, safe and sound.

A more detailed update later!

-Monica

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Friday, April 7th, 2006
3:42 pm - Exciting news, Spring Break, and a few pictures.

First, the exciting news.  In an uncharacteristic fit of generosity, ND has effectively funded my return to Cairo this summer!  Insha'Allah, I will be returning to al-Qahira on or around 1 July and will be back in the states around 1 August.  Now begins the fun part--looking for an apartment.  

Next, spring break.  Here's a rough itinerary, for all insterested parties, complete with handy Wikipedia links interspersed throughout:

EDIT: Unfortunately, Jordan's not going to work out, so, instead, I'll be partaking in some quality Amr Diabness and working on homework until my family arrives.  It'll all make sense in the end, I think.

~Thursday, 13 April:  Leave Cairo on the same overnight bus that took us halfway to Jerusalem.  Oh, sweet nostalgia.  
~Friday, 14 April:  Cross the border from Israel to Jordan and take a bus to Wadi Rum, where we'll take a Jeep tour and camp in the desert with a Bedouin tour guide.  Miss the AMR DIAB CONCERT and BECKY'S BIRTHDAY.
~Saturday, 15 April:  Drive from Wadi el-Rum to Petra, where we'll take a whirlwind tour and then depart for Amman.
~Sunday, 16 April:  Either visit the Dead Sea from the Jordan side, or cross into Israel and see the other side.  Either way, end up in Jerusalem by mid-day and do the regular touristy things.
~Monday, 17 April:  Depart from Jerusalem back to Cairo, where I'll be meeting my mom, uncle, and brothers at the airport.
~Tuesday, 18 April:  Do some preliminary Cairo exploration with the fam, including the Egyptian Museum.  Fly to Luxor in the evening.
~Wednedsay, 19 April-Thursday, 20 April:  Luxor
~Friday, 21 April:  Return to Cairo and spend the day at Giza and Saqqara, in true tourist fashion.
~Saturday, 22 April:  Tour Khan el-Khalili and Islamic or Coptic Cairo during the day, watch the Whirling Dervishes at the Citadel at night.  
~Sunday, 23 April:  Day trip to Alexandria
~Monday, 24 April:  Wander aimlessly through Cairo.  Family leaves.



Salaam!
-Monica

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Tuesday, March 21st, 2006
12:19 am
I've had the opportunity to take this exact picture about five times since I've been here, but it seems I'm all talk and Kathryn's all action.



Yes, those are the Pyramids. 

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Friday, March 17th, 2006
2:20 pm - Virtual Tour of the Holy Sites
This entry is mainly intended for curious family members, but feel free to flip through if you so desire.  Consider yourself warned, however, that there are many, many pictures involved, some of which appeared in the previous entry. 
Enjoy! )

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Wednesday, March 15th, 2006
2:47 am

I'm back.  I'm alive.  It was amazing. 


More this weekend, after I get caught up with work.  Until then, some

pictures. )

Ma'a Salaama

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Wednesday, March 8th, 2006
11:59 pm - Public Service Announcement
Hi, everyone,

I just wanted to let you all know that for the next week-ish (tomorrow, Thursday, until either next Wednesday or Thursday), Anne (girl I came to Cairo with) and I will be attending an academic conference in Jerusalem. It's being sponsored by the Kroc Institute back home (I'm doing my Peace Studies minor with them), and is entitled "Whence the Heavenly Justice? The Politics of Sacred Space and the Pursuit of Peace." We will be leaving tomorrow night at 10:00 PM and arriving in Jerusalem at about 6:00 on Friday morning.

If you're interested, here is the link to the conference's homepage: http://www.nd.edu/~krocinst/events/prcpconf06.shtml

For those of you tuned into the global political atmopshere, please rest assured that we will be entirely safe throughout our stay in Jerusalem. We have been in constant contact with Father Burrell, a retired ND professor currently living at the Institute, who has assured us that we will have no problems whatsoever.

Be prepared...I intend to take enough pictures to fill several LJ entries!

Ma'a Salaama,
Monica

current mood: excited

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Saturday, March 4th, 2006
8:26 pm - Two updates in a row...color me amazed.


current mood: It's stinky in here.

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1:30 am - Mondo photo post



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Monday, February 27th, 2006
8:46 pm - More Pilfered Pics

This time, I stole them from Kathryn.  But she stole my pictures of the soccer celebration, so I'm considering us even.  Oh, and this time not only did they end up out of order (I've been meaning to mention that I publish these to livejournal via photobucket.com, so I have no control over what order they end up in--I'm not just THAT computer illiterate), but also in varying sizes, so a few of them might be distorted.  Anyway, on we go. 


Pictures )

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